Having surfed for nearly four hours the previous day (Jan 1), I decided to head out for one last session at Oneils bay on the West Coast before I got my children for a 10 day stint.
Half way through my surf , I got pitched and my rail saver snapped separating me from my board and dragging me into the impact zone.
I proceeded to cop 6 waves on the head and was getting sucked under at a rapid rate.
When something like this happens ,it happens so fast and all that I could remember was the flight and fight training exercises and breath work I had done with Ollie at FPT during winter.
Not once did I panic in an effort to conserve my energy stores and between every wave I was able to get a big breath in before going under.
This training I believe surely saved my life and I am forever grateful